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Auction: 26050 - Jewellery & Objets de Vertu
Lot: 31

A VICTORIAN DIAMOND SPRAY BROOCH
CIRCA 1890-1915
Featuring a stylised arrangement of blossoms and foliate stems set throughout with rose-cut and old-cut diamonds, crafted in silver-topped gold, mounted as a naturalistic spray brooch.
Unmarked
Size/dimensions: 8.50cm long
Gross weight: 13.00g

In very good condition. The largest diamond is approximately 0.18ct, with a total estimated diamond weight of approximately 4.00ct. The metal shows light wear consistent with age. The clasp is functional, with slightly reduced tension, and the pin is slightly bent but remains stable in use.


This is a fine example of the naturalistic style that became one of the defining characteristics of Victorian jewellery in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Designed as a delicate spray of flowering blossoms and foliate stems, it reflects the period’s enduring fascination with the observation, celebration, and scientific study of the natural world.



The nineteenth century saw an unprecedented expansion of interest in botany and horticulture. Advances in scientific classification, the widespread publication of illustrated botanical texts, and the popularity of public gardens and conservatories fostered a deep appreciation of plant life across all levels of society. Jewellery design responded directly to this cultural shift, moving away from earlier formal symmetry in favour of increasingly naturalistic compositions. Flowers, leaves, buds, and trailing stems were rendered with sensitivity, transforming jewels into miniature studies of botanical form.



This naturalistic language was further reinforced by the sentimental culture of the Victorian period. Floral symbolism (often referred to as the “language of flowers”) allowed jewels to convey layered emotional meaning. Roses signified love, ivy fidelity, forget-me-nots remembrance, and lilies purity, enabling floral jewels to function not only as ornament but also as personal expressions of sentiment and identity.



Naturalistic spray brooches were particularly fashionable from the mid-nineteenth century onwards. Designed to be worn at the shoulder, neckline, or bodice, their asymmetrical forms echoed freshly gathered bouquets, lending a sense of movement and spontaneity to formal dress. The use of rose-cut and old-cut diamonds enhances this effect, creating a varied play of light that suggests dew-laden petals and softly glinting foliage.


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Estimate
£2,000 to £3,000

Starting price
£1400