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Auction: 26050 - Jewellery & Objets de Vertu
Lot: 30

A VICTORIAN NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH
CIRCA 1880-1900
Featuring a natural saltwater pearl surrounded by old-cut diamonds in an openwork setting, crafted in silver-topped gold, mounted as a circular cluster brooch.
Unmarked
Size/dimensions: 2.8cm diameter
Gross weight: 10.94g

Offered for sale with a Gem & Pearl Laboratory report, no. 22150, dated 23rd September 2022, stating:
Description: Loose pearl with one part-drilled drillhole and two full drillholes and mounted with 19 cushion, old-cut, colourless stones on a brooch
Shape: Button-shaped
Measurements: 12.80-13.00mm x 10.5mm
Weights: Loose 'pearl': 11.18ct
Result: Natural Pearl (Saltwater)

In very good condition. Natural saltwater pearl, approximately 13 mm (11.18ct), surrounded by approximately 1.35ct of old-cut diamonds. All stones are present and securely set, with light wear consistent with age.


Natural Pearls in Victorian Jewellery
Prior to the development of cultured pearl production in the early twentieth century, all pearls were natural, formed accidentally when a foreign particle became enclosed within the soft tissue of a mollusc and was gradually coated with layers of nacre. The occurrence of gem-quality natural pearls was exceptionally uncommon; historically, thousands of oysters might be opened in the search for a single fine specimen. Their rarity made pearls among the most valuable gemstones in the world, frequently rivalling or exceeding diamonds in price.



Throughout the nineteenth century, natural saltwater pearls were harvested principally from the waters of the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea, the Gulf of Mannar between India and Sri Lanka, and the Caribbean. The arduous and often dangerous process of pearl diving, conducted without modern breathing apparatus, further enhanced their desirability and value.



Victorian jewellers particularly favoured pearls in combination with diamonds. The soft lustre of the pearl complemented the brilliance of old-cut diamonds, creating elegant and sophisticated jewels suitable for both day and evening wear. Cluster brooches such as this exemplify such an aesthetic, with the central pearl elevated as the principal focus and surrounded by a radiating frame of diamonds designed to enhance its natural glow.




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Estimate
£3,000 to £4,000

Starting price
£2400