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Auction: 26050 - Jewellery & Objets de Vertu
Lot: 43

AN EARLY 20TH CENTURY PAIR OF ESSEX CRYSTAL CUFFLINKS
Each cufflink is set with a reverse-painted crystal depicting a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel against a mother-of-pearl background, connected by stirrup links.
Stamped 585
Size/dimensions: 1.35cm diameter
Gross weight: 11.30g

The piece shows light surface wear consistent with age. The painted panels remain clear and attractive, and the item is offered in good condition.


Essex crystal work is a highly specialised form of reverse-carved intaglio. The image is carved into the flat reverse of a domed cabochon of rock crystal, painted in fine detail, and then sealed with a backing, often of mother-of-pearl. When viewed from the front, the convex crystal magnifies the painted scene, creating a remarkable illusion of depth and realism. The effect is almost miniature-like in quality, giving the impression that the subject is suspended within the crystal itself.



Developed during the Victorian period and remaining popular into the early twentieth century, Essex crystal jewellery was especially associated with sporting and gentleman's accessories. Dogs, horses, game birds, and hunting subjects were favoured motifs, appearing on cufflinks, tie pins, dress studs, and signet-style jewels. These themes reflected the interests and pursuits of the aristocratic and sporting classes, for whom such pieces served as both personal adornment and expressions of identity.



The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel was an especially popular subject. Long associated with royal and aristocratic households, the breed had become synonymous with refinement and pedigree. Its distinctive features and expressive character lent themselves particularly well to miniature portraiture, allowing artists to capture both the appearance and personality of the animal in remarkable detail.




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Estimate
£900 to £1,200

Starting price
£550