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Auction: 26050 - Jewellery & Objets de Vertu
Lot: 79

(†) A BURMESE RUBY AND DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING
Featuring multi-tiered geometric halo with fine millegrain detail.
Halo set with a large oval-cut, heated Burmese ruby and 100 natural brilliant-cut diamonds.
Signed by Aaron Gottlieb
Stamped PT950 and RU 5.62ct D 1.19ct
Size/dimensions: ring size N (US 6 3/4)
Gross weight: 11.50g

Offered for sale with a GIA report, no. 2235388714, dated 19th September 2024, stating:
Origin: Burma (Myanmar)
Color: Purplish Red
Treatment: Heated (Significant Residues), Moderate residues in cavities
Weight: 5.62ct
Also offered with an 'Appraisal Report' from AIGL (American International Gemological Laboratories, Inc.)

This lot has been imported into the United Kingdom and is subject to an additional 2% import duty calculated on the Hammer Price, payable by the buyer, together with any applicable VAT.


The ruby is securely set and well mounted. Rutile inclusions are present, giving a slightly translucent appearance. The piece is offered in excellent condition with no visible wear.


Cocktail Jewels
At its heart, the cocktail jewel is defined by abundance and presence: richly coloured gemstones, generous proportions, and sculptural settings designed to be seen in motion as well as in stillness. Rubies, sapphires, and emeralds sit alongside citrine, chrysoprase, jadeite, and other vividly hued materials, often contrasted with the brilliance of diamonds to heighten visual drama. This chromatic confidence reflects both mid-century design optimism and a renewed appreciation for historic gemstone traditions, particularly those associated with royal and aristocratic collections.



Many of the jewels in this section draw upon earlier stylistic vocabularies while reinterpreting them through a modern lens. Ballerina-style arrangements, bombé forms, geometric halos, and floral cluster designs all appear throughout the selection, demonstrating the enduring influence of Art Deco structure in particular.



A defining feature is also the prominence of important coloured gems. Several lots are accompanied by gemmological reports confirming natural origin, unheated status, or notable geographic provenance, underscoring the emphasis placed on quality in modern high jewellery. These characteristics, combined with striking design and substantial scale, ensure that cocktail jewels remain among the most expressive and desirable forms of personal adornment in the modern jewellery market. Cheers!

Subject to 20% tax on Hammer Price in addition to 20% VAT on Buyer’s Premium. For more information please view Terms and Conditions for Buyers.

Estimate
£3,000 to £4,000

Starting price
£1400