Auction: 26050 - Jewellery & Objets de Vertu
Lot: 77
A RUBY AND DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING
Claw-set with a large natural, unheated cabochon ruby within a surround of brilliant-cut diamonds.
Tests as ~16ct white gold
Unmarked
Size/dimensions: ring size M 1/2 (US 6 1/4)
Gross weight: 40.00g
Accompanied by GCS report no. 5786-2049 dated 13/04/2026, stating unheated natural ruby, origin undetermined, approx. 40.00ct.
The ruby exhibits natural inclusions and fractures with minor surface abrasion, resulting in a translucent appearance. Slight fluorescence is noted. The diamonds are well matched, with some showing inclusions and fluorescence. The piece displays light wear consistent with age and is offered in very good condition.
Cocktail Jewels
At its heart, the cocktail jewel is defined by abundance and presence: richly coloured gemstones, generous proportions, and sculptural settings designed to be seen in motion as well as in stillness. Rubies, sapphires, and emeralds sit alongside citrine, chrysoprase, jadeite, and other vividly hued materials, often contrasted with the brilliance of diamonds to heighten visual drama. This chromatic confidence reflects both mid-century design optimism and a renewed appreciation for historic gemstone traditions, particularly those associated with royal and aristocratic collections.
Many of the jewels in this section draw upon earlier stylistic vocabularies while reinterpreting them through a modern lens. Ballerina-style arrangements, bombé forms, geometric halos, and floral cluster designs all appear throughout the selection, demonstrating the enduring influence of Art Deco structure in particular.
A defining feature is also the prominence of important coloured gems. Several lots are accompanied by gemmological reports confirming natural origin, unheated status, or notable geographic provenance, underscoring the emphasis placed on quality in modern high jewellery. These characteristics, combined with striking design and substantial scale, ensure that cocktail jewels remain among the most expressive and desirable forms of personal adornment in the modern jewellery market. Cheers!
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Estimate
£3,000 to £4,000
Starting price
£2000