Auction: 26050 - Jewellery & Objets de Vertu
Lot: 46
A LATE 19TH CENTURY SOUTH INDIAN GOLD NECKLACE
CIRCA 1880-1910
Formed of woven mesh links and filigree clasp.
Featuring intricate granulation and filigree work with a diamond-shaped clasp and flexible woven structure.
Tests as 18-20ct Gold
Unmarked
Accompanied by old Spink card box and sales label
Size/dimensions: 50cm long
Gross weight: 81.68g
The piece shows some toning and minor discolouration. A slight kink is present in the chain, which does not affect wear. The clasp is secure, and the item is offered in good condition.
Provenance
Spink, by private treaty, c.1980s-1990s [comes with original SPINK sales label]
Constructed as a flexible woven gold mesh rope terminating in an elaborate filigree clasp, this necklace demonstrates the mastery of craftsmanship that characterised high-status jewellery produced for ceremonial and domestic use throughout the nineteenth century.
Gold has occupied a central role in South Indian culture for centuries, serving not merely as ornament but as a visible expression of wealth, social standing, religious devotion, and familial prosperity. Jewellery was often accumulated across generations and formed an important component of a family's assets, frequently gifted during marriages and other significant life events. As a result, substantial gold necklaces such as this occupied a position that was both decorative and symbolic.
The flexible mesh construction is particularly characteristic of South Indian jewellery, where woven gold chains and collars were prized for their luxurious drape and substantial weight. Such pieces were designed to combine visual richness with comfort in wear, allowing considerable quantities of gold to be fashioned into elegant and highly wearable forms.
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Estimate
£8,000 to £10,000
Starting price
£5500